Running in Antarctica

We made it to Antarctica and back safe and sound and I can’t wait to write all about the trip, but first I want to share about the marathon, which was a very challenging but extraordinary experience. The day before, King George Island, where the marathon was going to be held, was hit with rain and snow. The island is home to scientists that live on research bases from all over the world and we were supposed to run on their dirt road, from the start line to the Uruguay base, and then to the China base. However, the race organizers decided to change the course because the path to the Uruguay base had turned very dangerous with all the mud and snow. Now the course consisted of 6 laps from the start line to the China base and back. While some people complained, I actually liked it as I prefer to run laps: the familiarity with the whole terrain after only one lap would work well for my anxiety. And so, the next morning, our adventure started!

Getting our race bibs

Getting our race bibs

About 100 runners had to be brought to shore by zodiacs: each zodiac is a small boat that holds 8-10 people, so it took a while for everybody to get to shore. We ended up being on the last boat that left the cruise ship, not because we were late, but because someone had to be last and we figured we preferred to arrive closer to the starting time than to be first on the island and have to sit around for an hour. However, being last off the cruise ship didn’t work out so well because as soon as we set foot on shore, the organizers started the race: I didn’t even have my running shoes on yet! I scrambled to take all of my zodiac gear (waterproof suits and rubber boots), secure everything into my backpack and lace my shoes, but by the time I was done, the race was well under way. Because they go by gun time, not chip time, my official race time wouldn’t be an accurate representation of my running. Still, I wasn’t too upset: I was not there to finish the marathon at a certain time; all I wanted was to finish it!

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The day before, I had watched a movie about the Chicago marathon and one of the participants, who came last, said he didn’t mind taking his time: he had paid so much to be in that race, that he was getting his money’s worth by enjoying it for as long as possible. That was my attitude on race day. I was running a marathon in Antarctica and I wanted to experience it my way. I knew I had 7 hours to do it, so the fiancé and I decided to walk the first lap together. Since everybody was way ahead of us, we were able to walk, stop, take pictures, and absorb the view together. The research stations looked like small warehouses and some scientists were out and about that day. Around us we could also see lakes, the ocean, mountains, birds, and the occasional penguin. It was a beautiful time we spent together, but after the first lap, the race organizers were really worried about my time: if I continued to walk at that pace, I wouldn’t be able to complete the course in less than 7 hours.

The fiance and I at the starting line

The fiance and I at the starting line

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To prove to the race organizers that I could do it, I had to pick up my pace and the next lap I hit some 11-minute miles, which, considering the course, that was pretty good. The path to the China base was extremely muddy as well. Even though at first I tried to go around the potholes, it was pretty much impossible to keep my shoes clean and after a while, I gave up and stepped right in the middle of all the mess. Although the mud was a deterrent, it wasn’t as bad as the hills: not very steep ones, but there were lots of them. After the third lap I knew I couldn’t run the whole course and finish it, so to save my legs from exhaustion, I decided to walk the up hills and run downhill. It worked out great and I was having fun listening to my music, dancing, and enjoying the scenery. The weather had been in the 30’s with a light breeze and the three layers (next-to-skin base layer, fleece, waterproof outwear) I was wearing had proven to be the perfect amount. I was also very happy with my decision to bring my hydration pack. While most runners had to leave water bottles at the start line and the China base to replenish their bodies, I was able to hydrate anytime I wanted. Although I hadn’t had breakfast, my GU gels were working great. We couldn’t have them in the original wrappers on shore, so the night before I had squeezed all the gel into a flask and I was able to sip on that anytime I needed, thanks to my hydration pack that carried all of my essentials.

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I completed the half-marathon mark (13.1 miles) in 2h50, so I was confident I could finish the marathon under the cut off time, but then the wind started to pick up. Snow started to fall and I had to pull up my face mask to protect myself. The race organizers said they might have to close the course soon due to the weather: if the boat captain said we had to leave, we had to leave. During lap 4 I was worried I wouldn’t be able to finish the marathon: the really fast runners were already going back to the cruise ship, after finishing the course in about 3h30, but I was still really far behind – maybe I shouldn’t have walked that first lap… At least one of us had completed something: the fiance finished the half-marathon and was on his way back to the warm boat.

The fiance finished the Half-Marathon! Congrats!

The fiance finished the Half-Marathon! Congrats!

During the fifth lap I was trying so hard to get faster and finish before they closed the course, that I started to feel miserable, but then the wind died and the organizers told us we still had the full 7 hours to complete the marathon: I relaxed almost too much and just walked the last 2 miles, absorbing the magnitude of my day.  I ended up completing 26.2 miles in Antarctica in 6h15min, which is about 14-minute/miles. I hadn’t been the fastest runner (or the slowest! About 20 people finished after me!), but at least I had done it. Not only I had accomplished my lifetime goal of going to all 7 continents by age 30, but I had also finished a marathon in a muddy, hilly, cold, and windy terrain.

Antarctica Marathon? Check :)

Antarctica Marathon? Check 🙂

After receiving my finisher’s medal, I sat down with a big smile on my face and the cold finally hit me. The whole race I had been pretty comfortable as the heat built from running kept me warm, but once I stopped exercising, the cold sweat on my skin became unbearable. Thankfully, he expedition crew was awesome and I didn’t have to think about anything. They found my backpack, changed my shoes for me and zipped me up. Back on the cruise ship, the fiancé and I celebrated our accomplishments after a deserving long hot shower. He had finished the half-marathon in less than 4 hours, with tendonitis and all! So proud of us!

Traveling: Ushuaia, Argentina

Ushuaia - The end of the world

Ushuaia – The end of the world

Ushuaia is the southernmost town in the world and we had the pleasure to explore it before we left on our cruise to Antarctica. It’s a small town, but there are many activities to do in the area. Main Street is full of restaurants and shops and the snow-capped mountains behind it provide a cozy ski town feeling.

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Some people decided to hike up to Martial Glacier, where you have beautiful views of Ushuaia below, but knowing we would be seeing massive glaciers in just a couple more days, we decided to go to Tierra del Fuego National Park instead. The park can be reached by car of by train, the Tren del Fin del Mundo (End of the World Train). Since we only had a day there, the fiancé and I plus a couple from Australia hired a taxi to take us inside and show us some of the lakes and overlooks. Yes, the worse way to explore a national park, but it worked out really well as we were trying to conserve energy for our run anyway. The taxi driver would take us to a trail, we would hike for a little bit, and then he would take us to a different spot. It was a beautiful day at Tierra del Fuego, the land of fire, which got this name because natives would warm themselves up with huge bonfires near the shore a few hundred years ago.

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After checking our e-mails one last time before losing all connectivity with the world, we boarded the cruise ship , did a lifeboat drill, and said goodbye to Argentina. The Beagle Channel and the Drake Passage were ahead of us: now nothing but water was separating me from my dream.

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Argentina on top, Antarctica on the bottom

Argentina on top, Antarctica on the bottom

Traveling in Buenos Aires, Argentina

Buenos Aires is a city of almost 3 million people (14 million in the metro area!) so my first impression wasn’t that great: lots of concrete and traffic like any other metropolis. However, after doing a city tour with the group, I found many places worth seeing.

Buenos Aires with mom, dad, and the fiance

Buenos Aires with mom, dad, and the fiance

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To hit many landmarks at once, we headed to Plaza de Mayo, a city square that celebrates the 1810 Mayo Revolution, a movement that started the independence process. There, once a week, the moms of Madres de la Plaza de Mayo still meet to protest against the disappearance of children during Argentina’s Dirty War in the 70’s.

Facing the plaza is La Casa Rosada, Argentina’s White House. This not where the president lives, but it is where she works. Christina Fernández de Kirchner has been involved in a lot of scandals lately, so she did not make an appearance at Evita’s famous balcony when we were there. Speaking of Evita, the late former first lady is celebrated everywhere from murals on buildings to statues on plazas.

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Also near Plaza de Mayo is the Catedral Metropolitana, Buenos Aires’ main cathedral. Inside it’s just like any other church in South America, full of sculptures and gold, but outside it doesn’t have any towers, but a classical colonnade. This is a very historical building as well: it houses the mausoleum of independence war general San Martin and it’s the church Pope Francisco came from.

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An unexpected tourist attraction in Buenos Aires is a cemetery. La Recoleta has beautiful mausoleums and graves and one can get lost looking at all the details of each. It is also the home of late presidents, Nobel Prize winners, and Evita Perón, who is buried in the Duarte Family mausoleum.

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As far as shopping, Buenos Aires has many options. Calle Florida is a pedestrian street with lots stores, including shady money exchange places: all you hear is “¡Cambio!” (“change”) all day long. Nearby is Galerías Pacífico with high-end stores and murals from famous artists like Antonio Berni. Then for some culture, it is good to check out El Caminito in the neighborhood of La Boca, where its colorful buildings give an exciting feeling to the area, which is packed with street artists.

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Argentina is also a synonym for tango. This sensual Latin dance was born in Buenos Aires in the 1890s and exploded in the world in the 30’s with Carlos Gardel. Many places in the city have traditional tango houses called milongas, but we went to a dinner and a show option at El Querandí, where several couples and a live band went through the history of tango while a three-course dinner was served. We only had a few days in Buenos Aires, but I feel we experienced the best the city has to offer.

Cheers to Argentina!

Cheers to Argentina!

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Eating in Buenos Aires, Argentina

Argentina has a huge Italian influence, so some of its best food items are pizza, pasta, and gelatos. Of course we tried all of those things. The fiancé’s top choice for Italian was Filo, near our hotel, but the best pizza I had while there was actually a “fuegan” lamb one in Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the country.

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Buenos Aires is also known as the “Paris of South America”: it has lots of cafes full of delicious pastries and empanadas (a mini calzone). You can’t go to Argentina without having alfajores, which is dulce de leche (caramel) between two cookies and then dipped in chocolate and/or coconut flakes. There is a coffee shop chain called Havanna that sells some of best, but we also tried some from Café Tortoni, a coffeehouse opened in 1858 by a Frenchman and that is now a historical (and touristy) monument of Argentina.

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The fiancé had been a vegetarian for over 2 months when we went to Argentina, but he broke his streak when we went to a parrilla, an Argentinian steakhouse. Argentines are said to eat the most meat in the world and always boast about the quality of their beef. Asado (or barbecue) is a way of life that comes from the gauchos (cowboys). Of course our meal was accompanied by some wine: Malbec is also an Argentine way of life.

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Running in Buenos Aires, Argentina

We arrived in Buenos Aires, the capital of Argentina in the morning and met some of our fellow Antarctic marathon runners right way. They already had a group run scheduled for that afternoon, leaving from the Plaza Hotel where we were staying and going 2-3 miles toward Puerto Madero, by the waterfront. As tempting as stretching my legs after a 15-hour flight was, I was more excited to spend time with my parents who had flown from Brazil to see us. We ended up walking all the way to Puerto Madero together and some of the runners passed us by. They looked like the serious kind! Oh my, would I be able to keep up with them in Antarctica?

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Puerto Madero is now one of the poshest neighborhoods in Buenos Aires. The waterfront by river Río de la Plata has seen a renovation in the last few years that brought high-risers and lots of restaurants to the area. Another landmark, Puente de la Mujer, is a beautiful harp-like bridge that links both sides of the docks.

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Walking a little further east, the four of us also made it to a natural reserve called Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur. This a huge marshy area with a large sidewalk perfect for strolling on a nice afternoon. Buenos Aires is the second largest city in South America, behind only São Paulo (Brazil), so this green area full of birds and trails is a welcome escape from the busy streets nearby.

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Knowing that my marathon was approaching, I did go on a jog a few days later. Although humid, it was an incredibly satisfying run, watching the sunset from the Women’s Bridge and passing steakhouses in Puerto Madero. Hmm… the juicy smell… time to write about eating!

Running: Training for Antarctica

Antarctica is just around the corner and I am ready! This past month of training went really well and I am very excited. Although most of February was nice, warm and full of perfect days for runs and hikes, we had a few snow showers and very windy days too.

 

Even though I wasn’t going to train with very long runs due to starting my training really late in the game, I was able to do a long run of 20 miles this past weekend! I did it in 4h35, which is very slow, but I’m very happy with my accomplishment since I had an upset stomach and it was cold and raining. The next day my feet were really sore, but a massage helped 😉

It was also a busy month of promoting the fundraiser for Big Brothers Big Sisters: several radio and TV interviews occupied my time. Click here to see the one from News 4 and click here to see the live interview from Fox 11. I had a lot of fun talking about Antarctica and BBBS. If you haven’t had a chance to donate yet, please go to:

http://bbbsnn.kintera.org/faf/home/default.asp?ievent=1133651

Interview with Reno Morning News

Interview with Reno Morning News

 

 

 

More: Oscar Party 2015

Another glam night! The fiance is getting sick of my parties: he thought that when I said I like to dress up I meant in costumes, not in fancy clothes 🙂 But we all looked so good!

I was actually able to watch all of the Best Picture nominated movies this year, plus a few extra ones, such as “Wild” and “Fifty Shades of Grey”. In the past few weeks, if I wasn’t running, I was watching a movie.

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We had almost 20 people at our Oscar party and it was a blast again: good food, good drinks, good people. Neil Patrick Harris was an awesome host and this year we ended up watching most of the broadcast. Like last year, we had a red carpet and prizes for best dressed male/female and most correct picks. Good job G. who bought her dress at “Salvation Army” and F. who wore a tux!

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Eating and More: Valentine’s Day at “La Vecchia”

Super romantic Valentine’s Day with the fiance: he woke me up with a dozen red roses and chocolate (the sea salt caramel chocolate candies from “Trader Joe’s”!) and I made a Brazilian breakfast for him with yogurt, toast with jam, fruit, tea, and a smoothie.

Happy Valentine's Day

Happy Valentine’s Day

At night we celebrated with a glass of champagne at “Napa-Sonoma Grocery Company” before going to “La Vecchia” in its new location. This Italian restaurant has an amazing view of downtown. My lobster was delicious and the fiance’s salmon was perfect. At the end we talked to chef/owner Alberto Gazzola for a bit and he even shared a few secrets with us: the salmon had been done in the pizza oven! Definitely a very romantic place for a date, but the flawless food sealed the deal.

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More: Antarctica Fundraiser for Big Brothers Big Sisters

As you know, I am achieving my dream of traveling to all 7 continents by the age of 30 very soon: not only I’m going to Antarctica in March, but I’m also running a marathon there. I am incredibly excited about the trip, but even more excited to have an opportunity to team up with the mentoring organization Big Brothers Big Sisters to help children in my community.

As a teacher, I see on a daily basis how adults can help shape children lives by being there for them. The Big Brothers Big Sisters program positively influences children self-confidence, provides stability, changes their perspective on life and encourages them to set higher goals. The high school graduation rate for children living in poverty in Washoe County, where I live, was 56% last year.  Recently I was pleased to learn that 75% of the age eligible “Littles” graduated last June. Since I joined Big Brothers Big Sisters, my “Littles” have also enriched my life in countless ways and I would like to keep supporting this organization.

In the spirit of my upcoming Antarctic adventure, I’d love for you to join me in making a difference in a Little’s life. Your contribution to Big Brothers Big Sisters will help provide one-to-one mentoring programs for at-risk youth in northern Nevada.

Join me by following this link and making a donation and don’t forget to check out my Antarctica journey on this blog Run, Eat, Travel, and More.

Thank you for your support! E.M. 🙂

www.runeattravelandmore.com

http://bbbsnn.kintera.org/antarctica

Ps.: Since I don’t have Facebook, I’ll love your help sharing a link to the fundraiser there!

Outing with with my Little

Outing with with my Little

More: Wedding Planning

When we first started looking at getting married in 2015, I started going crazy: there is so much to do and it’s so expensive! But now that we are looking into 2016, I am finally able to enjoy all the wedding planning. I have been to two Bridal Fairs and several venues with the fiance. Take a look at what I have found so far: Tannenbaum on Mt. Rose, Corner Barn in Graeagle, The Grove near our house,  Wild River Grille Restaurant in Reno, Nevada Museum of Art, Cargo at Whitney Peak Hotel, The Loft at Somersett. I even took a look at a place in Napa: Wedgewood, which is by a golf course. What is it going to be?? Small wedding at a park? Big reception hall in Reno? Destination wedding in Napa? Glad I have time to decide! In the meantime, I will keep taking advantage of all the tastings 🙂

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