Traveling: Ring of Kerry, Ireland

From Killarney, another famous coastal drive is the Ring of Kerry. Supposedly the views are better than the Slea Head Drive in Dingle Peninsula, but we wouldn’t know because the day was covered in fog.

Fog

Fog

We stopped in lots of small towns: Killorglin, where they have the Puck festival that celebrates a goat as king, Cahersiveen, that has the Old Barracks Heritage Center (Michael Collin’s Museum), Waterville, where Charlie Chaplin used to vacation, Caherdaniel, which is a tiny beach town and hometown of Daniel O’Connell, Sneem, where Charles de Gaulle vacationed, Macroom, Michael Collin’s ambush place, and many viewpoints that were covered in rain, fog, or mist throughout the day.

The best thing of the afternoon was actually the chowder and soda bread I had while waiting for the rain to pass, but finally, towards the end of the supposedly scenic drive, the fog dissipated and left us with the beautiful views of Killarney’s Lakes from Moll’s Gap and Ladies’ View.

Ladies' View

Ladies’ View

Traveling: Killarney, Ireland

After being in small villages for the past few days, I enjoyed my time in Killarney, in County Kerry. Although it still only had 14,000 people, it had some neat attractions: St. Mary’s church (19th century), Killarney National Park (25,000 acres), and a lively nightlife (it has the most hotel beds in Ireland after Dublin).

Ross Castle

Ross Castle

The town has a beautiful national park with lakes and the only wild red deer herd left in Ireland. One day I walked the many trails and the other I jogged for 6 miles. So happy I was able to keep running while on vacation. All thanks to the long summer days (although it felt more like winter since it was always so cold). Killarney National Park also has castle in the middle of it: Ross castle, from the 15th century. The tower house is impressive, but unfortunately you can only go into the rooms with guided tours.

Killarney National Park was the first national park of Ireland and has many more attractions, some of them only accessible by boat. There is also Muckross House (again… guided tour, so I didn’t have time to go in) and Torc Waterfall, which is a pretty landmark in the national park’s many trails.

Downtown feels very international with all the flags on main street, but the pubs are very Irish – live music was everywhere and people were partying and having fun. “The Grand” was the pub of choice for our group every night.

Traveling: Slea Head Drive and Dingle, Ireland

It was a beautiful day for a drive around the Wild Atlantic Way! Slea Head is a circular drive around Dingle Peninsula in County Kerry. The drive is pretty scary since the road is very narrow, but on a nice day, the views are spectacular.

Slea Head Drive

Slea Head Drive

Slea Head Drive

Slea Head Drive

Slea Head Drive

Slea Head Drive

We stopped along the coast to visit some Beehive Huts, small little stone houses built by hermit monks probably in the 12th century. From the road, you can view Slea Head, and the Skellig and Blasket Islands.  We went on a short hike and rubbed our butts on a fertility stone for good luck and stopped by a couple of beaches, including Coumeenole where the movies “Ryan’s Daughter” and “Far and Away” where filmed as well as Inch Beach with its spectacular 7 miles of sand. Although some people were swimming and taking surfing lessons, I just enjoyed the scenery. The cliffs of this westernmost part of Europe are unbelievable!

The small fishing town of Dingle is also very cute. It was very lively with families eager to see the mascot dolphin Fungie who sometimes show up at the bay. After exploring the many shops, I enjoyed a lunch at “Out of the Blue”, a seafood-only restaurant that has a changing menu everyday. I tried their oyster and a potato crusted Pollock with a glass of wine. Delicious! For dessert, I stopped at Murphy’s for the creamiest of ice creams.

Out of the Blue Restaurant

Out of the Blue Restaurant

Traveling: Rock of Dunamase, Adare, and Annascaul, Ireland

After leaving Dublin, we were off to the quintessential Irish countryside, which included ruins of a medieval castle, 360 degrees of green, and rain.

Rock of Dunamase

Rock of Dunamase

Rock of Dunamase is a small hill in the plains of County Laois, that has the ruins of a castle from the year 800. The views from the top are really pretty as the plains are green and the sky is misty, giving it an ethereal feeling. Although it’s mostly a ruin, the castle still has some of the walls and windows standing, so we can engage our imagination and think of all the fairy tales that could’ve taken place there – but it was most likely the site of many invasions too…

Our next stop was at the little town of Adare in County Limerick. It is a super neat village that has won the title of “Ireland’s Tidiest Town” in the past. There is a main street with craft stores and thatched roof houses as well as a nice park nearby. While walking along the river trying to get to another medieval castle, I was able to visit three different monasteries: Augustinian Priory (1316), Franciscan Abbey (1464), and Trinitarian Abbey (1230). Each one was very cute and well taken care of, but I was never able to get to Desmond Castle as halfway there I learned you can only go in with a guided tour.

Making our way to the Dingle Peninsula, we spend the night in Annascaul. Our bus driver said there was absolutely nothing in this town of less than 300 people so we better just stay in our hostel and the pub next door and drink. That’s what most people did: bad bar food and more Guinness. But there was still light out at 9 pm, so I went on a jog – I soon found out Annascaul was much more interesting than anticipated. There are TONS of walking trails since the Dingle Peninsula is famous for its coastline hikes. There are several pubs and restaurants, so one didn’t have to eat bad pub food. And Annascaul is the birthplace of Tom Crean, the South-Pole explorer! There is even a rock from Antarctica on display and a pub called The South Pole Inn that used to be managed by Crean himself. Having just visited Antarctica earlier in the year, I felt Annascaul deserved more credit. Oh, and the sheep – there were sheep everywhere!

Running, Eating, and Traveling: Dublin, Ireland

And my big summer trip was… Ireland! It was a last minute trip as I had first planned on going to Mexico to save money, but then I couldn’t find a travel partner and drinking at an all-inclusive resort by yourself is not that appealing, so on 4th of July I changed my plans and bought a flight to Ireland for pretty much the next day. I just figured that since I will have an Irish last name next year then I should get to know my future kids’ roots. Although the last minute flight was pretty expensive, I found a bus tour and hostels for the whole 2 weeks I was there and the trip ended up being very affordable.

My first stop was at the capital Dublin. I arrived at the airport and took a bus that dropped me off downtown near this big silver spire called The Monument of Light. I knew my hostel was somewhere in the vicinity and I did have a map, but I am just horrible with directions, so all I did was walk around towards one direction and, just by luck, I found my hostel a couple of blocks away. I hadn’t stayed in a dorm for over 10 years, but as soon as I got to my room, my roommates were super nice. They were all a little older and staying in Dublin for a couple of weeks to learn English. Since I was off to explore the city right away, I didn’t see them again… until that night when everyone was snoring…

As I mentioned, a map on my hands is not much help, so I just walked and walked in Dublin until I got somewhere. Luckily, there are street signs everywhere, so first I found the Liffey river and all its bridges. The most famous one was Ha’penny Bridge. Then walking past O’Connell Street there was the compelling Famine Memorial and a replica of a famine ship that took Irish immigrants to the US. My goal now was to get to Trinity College since that’s where the Book of Kells is and that was the only thing in my must-see list of Dublin. Trying to find my way there, I walked a lot and passed St. Andrew Catholic Church, but I finally made it.

Trinity College, Ireland’s oldest university founded in 1592, is right downtown, but has a nice open campus. Its Old Library has over 5 million books and you can visit part of it any day if you are prepared to stand in line. It’s definitely worth it since the main room is beautiful with books from top to bottom and moving stairs. The most important document in the library is the Book of Kells. An illuminated manuscript written in Latin, it has the first four Gospels of the New Testament. Since it’s believed to have been made in Ireland in 800 A.D., it is a national treasure and very important to Christians. It comprises of almost 400 folios, but only 2 of them are displayed at a time to visitors. The pages were beautiful: the calligraphy work and the drawings were very well preserved for such an old book.

My walking tour of Dublin continued and I passed Grafton St. and its many shops and street artists, and the parks Merrion Square and St. Stephen’s Green. I tried stopping at a 5 star restaurant to have lunch, but the hostess looked at me and said “Sorry, we’re closed for lunch today”… As I walked away, I saw some people seated. Maybe it was just because I was all sweaty and in yoga pants instead of being dressed up for a 5 star place? Luckily, Merrion Square was having some festivities and I had a burger from one of the food stalls.  I then walked to the free National Gallery of Ireland to take a quick peak at the impressionist artwork they have there.

My next stop was Dublin castle and its medieval surroundings dating from 1169. Really cool to have a medieval castle in the middle of the city, but inside there are 18th century decorations since it has been the seat of the parliament for many years. The Chester Beatty Library is on its grounds, but I had to leave it for the next time I’m in Dublin as I had more medieval buildings to visit. Christ Church Cathedral was founded in 1030 and it’s absolutely impressive. The crypt is also very interesting with all the historical artifacts, such as a Magna Carta, the burial place of invader Strongbow and a mummified cat and rat. The last church I visited was St. Patrick’s Cathedral from 1191, which was also very beautiful. It still has the well used by St. Patrick to baptize his followers.

On my way back to the hostel, I found, by chance of course, the Temple Bar area. Lots and lots of pubs and live music, but since I’m not a beer fan, I just strolled the streets and watched the street performers. All was very lively! Although I had gotten back to the hostel at almost 10 p.m., I decided to add a run to my itinerary since it was summer and the sun was still out! I jogged for a few miles all the way to Phoenix Park on the other side of town. The sun was setting but the huge city park was still had some people walking their dogs. When I looked at my pedometer, it said I had walked for 14 hours, over 40,000 steps, and 16 miles! Well, I think I covered Dublin very well by foot on my first day there!

The next morning I met my tour mates and we took a bus tour of the city. It only lasted a few minutes and that’s when I realized Dublin is really small and that the only reason I walked so much the day before was because I kept getting lost! As a group we went to Guinness Storehouse, which besides a factory for the famous beer, it is also a high-tech museum. We watched them make beer, all the way from choosing the ingredients to bottling, shipping, and advertising. We had smell and taste samples and spent hours learning. Who knew a beer museum could be so entertaining! The last floor is where Gravity Bar is and had a 360 degree view of Dublin – that’s where I sipped on my one and only pint of Guinness for my Irish trip. I knew my trip was off to a good start!

My last night in Dublin was devoted to eating. Not that Ireland is known for gourmet food, but I felt I had to try a Guinness stew and an Irish coffee, so I chose one of the many pubs with live Irish music to enjoy some dinner. The stew was okay and the coffee wasn’t very good since I don’t really like coffee, but I devoured the soda bread! The music, however, was top-notch.